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Outside corners are by far the easiest to finish,
provided you use a metal outside corner. Here are the steps:
Step 1 - Obtain metal
outside corner support
long enough to cover the entire corner. Cut to length. Note:
Don't let some sales person talk you into "paper covered" outside corners
- these often don't attach securely, are not as durable, and ultimately
result in more work! - Fasten
metal corner with
screws every 6 inches or so on each side of the corner.
Are you finishing a corner where 2 other corners meet?
If so, see this
cutting guide.
Check to make sure all screws lie under the finish
surface by running the 10-inch knife down the corner
as shown here. If the
knife hits a screw or any other part of the metal other than the corner,
then set the screw or apply more screws to fasten metal. Ultimately,
you will use the corner as a guide for drawing down the mud with your
10-inch knife.
Step 2 - Apply mud to the
corner, filling in the depressed area from the corner to about 4 to 5
inches in from the corner on each side of the corner. You will need
lots of mud! Also, for this type of joint, you will want to use mud
that is not thinned on this first coat. Use your 10-inch knife to
draw down the mud as
shown here,
using the metal corner as a guide. If there are drag marks or voids, don't
fret since you will fill these in when you apply more coats. A picture of
the corner after the mud dries is
shown here. Use
leftover mud to fill screw depressions, discard unused mud, and
clean tools thoroughly.
Step 3 - Allow the mud to
dry. There is a lot of mud so it will take at least a day. Run
your (dry) 10-inch knife down each side of the corner and knock off any
mud that blocks its path
as shown here.
If the knife hits no more high spots, you are ready for another coat.
Step 4 - Place another coat
of mud that is about 6 inches wide on each side of the corner.
Here is a picture
of the mud placed on - I use the 4.5 inch knife to apply the mud - as you
can see the mud does not have to be applied perfectly level since the
10-inch knife will level it out. Draw down the mud with the 10-inch knife
using the metal corner as a guide. You should wet down the knife so that
it glides easier with less chance for a "washboard
effect".
In this picture, you can see that the corner is starting to look
finished. Use leftover mud to fill screw depressions, discard unused mud,
and clean tools thoroughly.
Step 5 - After all the mud
it thoroughly dry, run your (dry) 10-inch knife down each side of the
corner and knock off any mud that blocks its path as done in Step 3.
If the knife hits no more high spots, you are ready for another coat.
Step 6 - Place another coat
of mud that is about 8 inches wide on each side of the corner. Draw down
the mud with the 10-inch knife using the metal corner as a guide. You
should wet down the knife so that it glides easier with less chance for a
"washboard effect".
Now the corner is really starting to look finished!
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Step 7 - After all mud is
thoroughly dry, run your (dry) 10-inch knife down each side of the corner
and knock off any mud that blocks its path as done in Steps 3 & 5.
If the knife hits no more high spots, you are ready for another coat.
Make sure to knock down any washboard effect by
scraping
perpendicular to the ridges in order to knock off these troublesome
high spots. Often, I use two hands on
the tool to exert the pressure needed.
Step 8 - Place another coat
of mud, this time slightly thinned, that is about 9.5 inches wide on each
side of the corner. Draw down the mud with the 10-inch knife using the
metal corner as a guide. You should wet down the knife so that it glides
easier with less chance for a "washboard
effect". Now the corner, except for a few drag marks or washboard,
should be finished.
Step 9 - After all is dry,
knock off any remaining high spots (there shouldn't be many). Use a
trouble light at a
low angle to find imperfections. Fill in drag marks by placing a small
amount of thinned mud over the mark and tightly drawing it off with the
4.5 inch knife. If you are seeing faint washboard-like waves even after
knocking down the surface, you can remedy this nicely by applying a very
thin coat drawn perpendicular to the waves
as shown here - this
is a much better move than trying to sand the surface level! For the
corner shown, I ended up putting a very light thinned coat of thinned mud
for the entire corner. I drew the knife tightly toward the corner,
applying a minimum of mud and keeping steady pressure on the knife. Then I
went back and touched it up with the 4.5 inch knife.
When this step is completed,
you should have a wall that would look half-way decent even if you did not
sand. Here is a picture
of the wall I have been documenting for this site before sanding.
NOTE: The very outer edge of the
outside corner will be metal when you are ready to prime. You would
not want mud on the very edge of this outside corner since it would easily
chip off. After you prime and paint, all will look fine.
Step 10 - Lightly and sparingly
sand with 220 grit paper on a 3" by 8" sanding block. Vacuum the
surface off. Shine a
trouble light or lamp
at a low angle to see any scratches, voids, or drag marks that need to be
filled in. Use small amounts of thinned mud firmly drawn down with
the 4.5" or 10" knife (I like to use the 4.5 inch knife for this).
If your job passes the low angle light test, you have a completed the job
well. Avoid
sanding the paper surface of the drywall!
Step 11 - Prime with a latex
primer. Don't work the primer around too much - it can lift
compound! Paint with a latex paint. Note that some primers
require you to paint within 48 hours of priming.
Step 12 - Show your friends the
nice job you did. (here's a pic of the
painted wall documented on this site) Tell them about this web site
drywallinfo.com !
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